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The Taco Hunt – Searching out authentic taquerias in Baton Rouge

Tacos from La Morenita. File photo

Most of us have embraced the American taco—a crunchy shell, likely from a box, warmed until crisp then filled with over-seasoned ground beef, iceberg lettuce, tomato, shredded cheese and maybe some onions and sour cream. Scrubbed of authenticity, it’s as common as pizza and hotdogs and has become a staple in Tex-Mex restaurants.

But a real taco can be so much more than its processed distant cousin, and right now in Baton Rouge, there are more legitimate taco possibilities than ever thanks to the steady growth over the past decade of authentic taquerias. These humble eateries offer a wide range of taco options, and one bite will shift your taco barometer in a satisfying new direction.

The big menus, friendly staff and reasonable prices make them worth checking out. Here are four standouts:

LA MEXICANA
7034 Siegen Lane (Map it!)

Formerly called Taqueria Mi Pueblita, La Mexicana is an eatery located at the rear of a small grocery store, and its tacos and other menu items make it worth a stop. Grab a bottle of tamarind soda while you wait and munch on chips served with a combination of house salsa verde and spicy tomato-based salsas. The tender shredded chicken, braised steak and barbacoa tacos are all juicy and sumptuous. Their seasoning is complex and balanced. Order each of these in corn tortillas, and expect to see two, not one, for each taco, a strategy common at taquerias that helps keep in juices and hold everything together. “Especial” tacos at La Mexicana include the welcome additions of lettuce, fresh guacamole, shredded white cheese and pico de gallo.

LA MORENITA
7981 Florida Boulevard (Map it!)

Its sign says “meat market,” but this large grocery store offers a lot more, including heaps of fresh produce used in Latin American cooking, dry and packaged goods, spices, tortillas by the gross and other items. What really stands out, though, is the quick-serve taco line. Choose between corn and flour tortillas steamed on the spot and stuffed with fillings such as slow-braised, seasoned beef barbacoa, shredded pork carnitas, roasted and fajita-style chicken and steak, tongue (sometimes), refried beans and other ingredients. The small adjacent condiment bar includes lettuce, pico de gallo, pickled vegetables and salsas packed with flavor. Don’t miss the creamy avocado sauce, a perfect complement to flavorful, savory barbacoa stuffed in a sturdy corn tortilla.

LA TIENDITA
6031 Siegen Lane (Map it!); 15356 Old Hammond Highway (Map it!)

The original La Tiendita on Siegen Lane, also connected to a Latin American grocery store, was one of the first taquerias in Baton Rouge to change local thinking about authentic Mexican fare. The menu is expansive, but the tacos are a must, especially if you’re a fan of tongue as a main ingredient. Lengua aficionados can’t get enough of the tender slivers of meat made soft and sumptuous through slow cooking. It’s a classic taco filler, and La Tiendita presents it well. If tongue isn’t your thing, no worries. Turn to chicken, beef, carnitas, barbacoa or even pork cracklin tacos, chicharrón, which should be paired with pico de gallo, salsa verde and crisp lettuce.

LA REYNA
13213 Perkins Road (Map it!)

This quaint Central American restaurant features a broad menu with a heavy focus on Honduran and Salvadoran favorites. The tender, grilled white fish tacos served in flour tortillas are a must. Simple and clean-tasting, the flaky fish pairs well with its accompanying crunchy cabbage, raw salsa and squirts of fresh lime. At the other end of the spectrum are the robust Honduran tacos, deep fried corn tortillas curled around a filling of braised shredded beef or chicken, spicy tomato-based sauce, cabbage, red onion, fresh tomato and queso fresco. One of La Reyna’s greatest strengths is its range of fresh condiments, including punchy salsa verde and chimol, a Salvadoran salsa similar to pico de gallo that features raw radishes. Order a few different tacos here, then take your time gilding the lily with these full-bodied toppings.