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R&R

August 20, 2008
By Sarah Young

Rest and relaxation. That's what this past weekend was all about. For the first time all summer I had no agenda, no schedule and thankfully no place to be. I felt liberated from the shackles of adulthood for the first time in a long time.

And what better way to spend an abundance of free time than partaking in my four favorite pastimes: eating, sleeping, drinking and reading. So that's exactly what I did. Armed with a gift certificate to the Auld Sweet Olive Bed & Breakfast in New Orleans, I convinced my husband to sign on as my partner in crime, a fairly easy task when using a Sazerac as your bribe.

We packed up our dogs and headed out Friday afternoon after work. With no plan and no reservations we approached the entire weekend with nonchalance, starting out with dinner Friday night. Upon the recommendation of a friend we decided to check out the Marigny Brasserie on Royal Street and sampled some of the most amazing ceviche and braised rabbit I've ever tasted. After that, it was drinks at Mimi's and then back to the room for a good night's rest.

Saturday started out with such promise. Over breakfast we met a very interesting guest who claimed to be the grandson of one of the founding members of Los Cinco Pintores, the famed New Mexican artists colony. At 9 years old he sat and had his portrait painted by Georgia O'Keefe, who was a big part of his life growing up. That painting, which is currently hanging in the Whitney, is apparently one of the only known portraits by O'Keefe.

After listening to these amazing tales over coffee (my husband thought he was full of it) we decided to head over to Port of Call and kick off our relaxing weekend with a couple of Abita beers and the most amazing hamburgers and loaded baked potatoes in the city. From our table overlooking Esplanade we could see the storm clouds rolling in and the rains came as soon as we jumped into the car. That just meant it was time for an afternoon nap. This was a relaxing weekend, after all.

Saturday was supposed to be a day of exploring. After skimming through The Booklover's Guide to New Orleans by Susan Larson, which I picked up at the LSU Press book sale, I was eager to scout out some great local bookshops. Refreshed from our midday nap, we set out.

Our first stop was Faulkner House Books, which, despite being tucked away down Pirate's Alley near the Cathedral, is a must for any bibliophile. It's about the size of a small bedroom, but in it you will find amazing one-of-a-kind classics by Faulkner, Williams, Welty and other Southern staples. They even have an enclosed case brimming with autographed copies and rare first editions. A few blocks away we stopped off at Librarie Used Books on Chartres and the Used Book Exchange on Decatur, two of my faves. I'm continually amazed by the literary history of New Orleans and the caliber of talent that once called the Crescent City home, like Truman Capote, Charles Bukowski, William S. Burroughs, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Jack Kerouac, Eugene O'Neill, O. Henry and Tennessee Williams.

My husband is not a huge fan of used bookshops and often remarks at the smell, an odor he equates to a crowded flea market. I, however, can't get enough of that wonderful smell. It seems to permeate every page and leaves the scent of yellowing pages on your fingers. But it's a trade-off. After a day traipsing through used bookshop after used bookshop it was onto the Saint's preseason game, a few more Abitas and some fried seafood. What could be more perfect?

The evening ended with friends and drinks at the Carousel Bar in the Monteleone Hotel, and as we were walking out I noticed a case in the lobby proclaiming the literary elite who stayed at and had written about this New Orleans landmark. As I reveled in the fact that Ernest Hemingway and I had sipped mojitos in the same general vicinity, I couldn't help but smile. What a great way to end the evening!

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