What would you make for Thanksgiving dessert if pie wasn’t an option?
I threw that question out to my Facebook friends not long ago and, just to be mean, I also forbade bread pudding. Once we got past some initial protestations, a flood of creative responses rolled in that got everyone excited about the holiday table. I don’t mean to suggest you really can’t serve pie or bread pudding, but thinking beyond them is a fun way to get the creative juices flowing. Turkey and side dishes are often shackled by tradition, but the dessert course is an open playing field that begs for new additions.
My friends were all over the map with suggestions like custard, pots de crème, cheesecakes (pumpkin being the frontrunner) and fruit crumbles. My cousin, Dorsey, reminded me about a family favorite, Brandy Alexander, and my friend, Eric, suggested pavlovas or sticky toffee pudding. A hometown friend said nuts and Port, and a couple of folks tossed out sorbet.
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Assuming your dessert table will groan with ample cakes and pies, homemade sorbet might just be the perfect newcomer. Kumquats are ripening across the region, and they make a fabulous—and easy—base.
My recipe for kumquat honey sorbet does not require an ice cream freezer and it can be made ahead.
Kumquat Honey Sorbet
Serves six.
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
2 cups (1 pint) ripe kumquats
1 tablespoon honey
Fresh mint and candied kumquats for garnish
Make a simple syrup first by bringing water to a boil. Turn off the heat, add the sugar and whisk vigorously to ensure the sugar is thoroughly incorporated. Set aside to cool.
Slice the kumquats in half across the middle and remove seeds. Add to a food processor and pulse until pureed. Scrape into a medium-size bowl. Add the honey and simple syrup, which should be room temperature or cool. Pour the mixture into an 8×8 glass pan and freeze for a few hours, until the mixture is mostly firm but not quite set.
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Working in batches, run the nearly frozen mixture through a blender or food processor. The color will mellow and the consistency will become creamier. Spoon the mixture back into the glass pan and refreeze for a few hours until firm. When ready to serve, allow the sorbet to sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes. Scoop into a pretty glass and serve with fresh mint and candied kumquats.
Candied Kumquats
Bring one cup of water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add ½ cup sugar. Whisk vigorously. Slice kumquats across the middle into thin slices—as many as you need for a garnish. Remove seeds. Drop the kumquats into the warm simple syrup in the saucepan and let steep for 10 minutes. Remove and garnish.