In a 1977 showdown, Dallas Cowboys defenders tackled Redskins running back and former Louisiana Tech product Bob Brunet so hard the blow broke his back. Temporarily paralyzed, the Lafourche Parish native ended his nine-year NFL career and moved back home to Louisiana. Brunet made a full recovery, though, and soon opened what would become his classic restaurant on South Flannery Road. Brunet’s No. 26 jersey and Redskins memorabilia, including photos from Super Bowl VII, hang on the walls of Brunet’s Cajun Restaurant.
The Ambience: South Louisiana cozy
Kid-friendly: Yes
Lunch: Yes
135 S. Flannery Rd. • 272-6226
Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. – 9:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
No reservations • All credit cards
Still in its original location, Brunet’s runs the gamut of road-tested Cajun and Creole cuisine, from shrimp and okra gumbo and crawfish etouffee to chicken and sausage jambalaya and bread pudding. But rarefied regional dishes like catfish courtbouillon, crab au gratin, and frog legs make Brunet’s stand out among more city-slick establishments.
Aiming for authenticity with its atmosphere as well as its food, Brunet’s prints its menu items in English and French and offers a good-natured history of the Cajuns on the back that matches perfectly with the restaurant’s casual, unassuming homeliness. Turn the page to read our secret diners’ reviews.
THE REVIEWS
The Healthy Eater
I eat healthy, even when eating out
I’d recommend:
Marinated crab fingers ($9.99). These were plump and tasty but not oily. This starter came with a tangy cocktail sauce that complemented the claws well.
Seafood gumbo ($6.50). This cup of gumbo had a nice roux, and the seafood tasted fresh. I dashed it a few times with Tabasco sauce out of habit more than need, but spicy eaters may want to add more.
Grilled tilapia ($13.99). This was well seasoned and not fishy-tasting at all. It was served with perfectly steamed vegetables and grilled red potatoes. Very good.
I’d avoid:
Tossed salad ($3.99). While it may seem like an unimportant course, I take my salads seriously. I pictured the bag-o-lettuce being poured into my bowl and topped with bleu cheese dressing that most definitely came out of a bottle. I quickly recovered from my disappointment when my next course arrived.
Filling up too much before dessert. Doing so made me sad because the bread pudding had a big fat red star by it on the menu. Plus a coconut sauce. Next time.
The bottom line:
Brunet’s is a comfortable family restaurant with an old-fashioned, no-frills feel. It’s a good place to take the kids or to go out with friends for some live Louisiana entertainment.
The Cajun Cook
I like my roux as dark as the Atchafalaya
I’d recommend:
The fried crab fingers ($9.99). Tasty and generously portioned, this dish offered a great serving of fried crab claws.
Shrimp with crabmeat sauce ($19.99). In my family crabmeat is like gold. And this dish consisted of lumps of crabmeat in a rich butter sauce poured over fried shrimp. What could be better? However, it is very rich, so you may want to take some home or cut back on the appetizers. The entree includes French fries or a baked potato, salad and French bread.
I’d avoid:
Tossed salad ($3.99). I asked for the house dressing, which ended up being what I guess was Thousand Island. I expected a little extra zip or maybe a spicy twist, but this salad definitely did not meet my expectations.
The bottom line:
Brunet’s offered no special savory surprises for a girl who grew up in South Louisiana. But if you’re looking for a comfortable, typical Louisiana restaurant to take the family, it’s worth a visit. The restaurant has a lived-in, welcoming feel. It would especially be fun to bring kids on Wednesday through Saturday nights when they offer live Cajun music.
The Fry Guy
A little grease now and then is relished by the wisest men
I’d recommend:
Little stuffed bread ($5.99). These unique goodies are quick-fried pistolettes stuffed with a creamy cheese, onion, crab and shrimp sauce. Every bite literally melts in your mouth, and amazingly, it’s not messy. I’ve never seen anything like this in Baton Rouge.
Petit shrimp platter ($10.99). Headlined by seven jumbo shrimp fried crispy but succulent, this platter offers plenty to eat. But if you’re craving more, double up on the $15.99 version. The tasty, tail-in shrimp are served on a bed of fries alongside three hush puppies that are a surprisingly light, white corn version with delicate flecks of green onion on the crust.
Bread pudding with coconut cream sauce ($5.50). I’m not sure what true Cajuns know about coconuts, but at Brunet’s they know their way around a coconut cream sauce. Sweet but not overly sugary, this Caribbean-influenced twist on a Louisiana favorite comes in a moist slab and is as mouthwatering as the dish can get.
I’d avoid:
Chicken and sausage gumbo ($10.99). At this price it’s a little expensive for the somewhat shallow bowl. Brunet’s does score points for the plump rice and tender chicken slices, but this no-frills gumbo is just like Mom’s, and when dining out, I expect a frill or two.
The bottom line:
Casual, unassuming and welcoming. If you want to feel the history of Louisiana cooking with every bite, Brunet’s is ready to handle your education in a kitschy, so-old-school-it’s-cool-again atmosphere.
