Primo’s Steak and Italian Restaurant

The Ambience: Upscale and quiet

Lunch: Yes

Kid-friendly: Friendlier for dates and business lunches

5454 Bluebonnet Blvd. #A • 291-9600

Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Monday through Saturday, 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.

Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Sunday dinner, 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.

Reservations accepted

All major credit cards

If you closed your eyes and took a bite you might not recognize the new Primo’s.

The expansive restaurant tucked away on Bluebonnet near Interstate 10 was long known for Creole-inspired French faire. But local chef-made-good Jaime Hernandez returned to Baton Rouge a few months ago and commandeered Primo’s version 2.0. The atmosphere is still candle-lit and romantic, but the menu has taken on Italian flavor, and is complimented by a selection of mouth-watering meats.

Primo’s 33-year-old chef spent the past few years honing his skills at Blue Moon Café in St. Thomas. Now back home he’s drawing on the Italian influences of his upbringing, if not his own Spanish heritage.

“The Italian dishes are still influenced by Louisiana,” Hernandez says.

“People wouldn’t eat Italian here if it was truly genuine, the different spices wouldn’t go over well.”

We’ll be the judge of that—three judges, in fact: a picky meat-eater, a gourmand, and a seafood enthusiast. 225 deployed our three-person food court to judge the new and Italianized Primo’s.

The Boss

After a hard day’s work, heaven is going out for a three-course meal.

I’d recommend:

Veal loin chop ($36.95). When this dish arrived, I imagined being in medieval times and picking up the bone to engulf the 10-ounce slab of meat. That’s a compliment, by the way. This chop was marbleized to perfection, each bite a tender escapade. If you’re looking for a nice plate of veal, you can’t go wrong here.

Asparagus tips and pine nuts (complimentary side). Primo’s gets major points for giving more than just three stalks of my favorite veggie. Small one-inch slices are topped with bits of ham and pine nuts and dabbed with oil. It’s light and crisp. Before I knew it, I ate every bite.

Fresh berry and amaretto cake ($6.95). After a heavy meal, this dessert hit a home run. Mixing fresh berries and soft meringue in an exquisite flower-shaped amaretto cookie, it’s not too rich, but another dish that left me with an empty plate and a smile.

I’d avoid:

Capellini marinara (complimentary side). My only shoulder shrug of the night was with the side of angel hair pasta with marinara sauce. The size is too big in comparison to the other sides, and the sauce felt rushed. It was the only thing I didn’t heartily chomp down.

The bottom line:

Class. Class. Class. Primo’s has it. When it comes to meats, they know how to do them. The sides were mostly top-notch, but if Primo’s is going to push its new Italian flare, then it better serve some good spaghetti. But if you order a cut of meat—medium rare is the only way to do it—you won’t be disappointed.

The Picky Beefeater

I only eat steak on special occasions, so when I do, it better be good.

I’d recommend:

8-ounce filet mignon ($29.95). Tender and tastefully seasoned with salt, pepper and just the right amount of butter—as opposed to some steakhouses that like their meat boiling in a bath of it—this was a ridiculously good filet. Halfway through I sent it back, more as a test than anything, and they gladly returned it five minutes later with a little more fire on the beef. A 12-ounce version is available for $10 more, but this serving was perfect.

Potatoes au gratin (complimentary side). Each steak comes with two sides of your choice, and this was the best of the bunch. With a crumbly topping and not-too-cheesy sauce, these potatoes were far superior to the greasy mess many restaurants pass off as au gratin.

Hazelnut panna cotta ($6.95). This Northern Italian specialty of “cooked cream” was served slightly warm and delicious, but it was the topping of Pinot Noir-soaked pear slices that made it memorable.

I’d avoid:

Antipasto ($8.95). My search for a worthy cheese plate in the city continues. This mixed platter of grilled veggies, mozzarella, parmesan, artichokes and Italian meats was fun to share with the table, but it failed to deliver any surprises. It was ordinary when it needed a wow factor.

The bottom line:

If you went a few years ago and were unimpressed, give Primo’s another shot, because this restaurant has completed a major comeback.

The Empty Tummy

Fill it up with anything but steak.

I’d recommend:

Hot baked romano bread ($3.95). This warm, soft bread was sprinkled with a lovely array of seasoning and cheese, which delighted my taste buds. It was so good I just wish there had been a little more of it.

Fresh berry and amaretto cake ($6.95). I can’t resist “fresh berry” anything. The cream under the berries was a little grainy at first bite, but I got over that when I realized how tasty it was. The cookie bowl holding the fruit and cream was delicious, especially when dipped in the sweet amaretto sauce surrounding it.

I’d avoid:

Barbecue shrimp fettuccini ($24.95). I obviously drew the short stick by not ordering a steak, which is what Primo’s is known for and my dining mates were so delighted with. Though I was satisfied with the six large shrimp sitting on my plate, I wish the pasta sauce had been thicker so I could have enjoyed its flavor more. It was so thin it ran right off the shrimp.

The bottom line:

This seems to be the perfect place for red-meat lovers, but I’m set on proving I can eat anywhere with my pescetarian diet, and Primo’s does have seafood options. The restaurant also gets bonus points for a lovely, romantic atmosphere and incredibly nice service.