Beausoleil has been a favorite haunt of mine since it opened six years ago. I’m not the only one in Baton Rouge who feels that way. With its upscale yet down-to-earth atmosphere, inventive seasonal menu and a friendly staff that always treats patrons like family, this popular restaurant draws a crowd most nights of the week.
Given the affection for this place in the evenings and among the after-work crowd, surprisingly, I can only recall visiting once for brunch. Having a rare perfect day of plentiful sunshine, cool temperatures and nothing better to do, we decided brunch seemed the perfect way to wile away our Sunday.
We met friends at 1 p.m. and took advantage of the beautiful weather by sitting outside on Beausoleil’s side patio. Shade is hard to come by out there, so if you’re sensitive to the sun, the front covered patio might be more to your liking.
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Nothing screams brunch like a bloody mary, and Beausoleil’s has just enough kick and spice with bold tomato flavor. Sparkling wine is another brunch staple, and the menu offers several varieties by the glass.
Not wanting to be weighed down, we ordered only one appetizer. The Shrimp Soleil offered six fried shrimp with green onion aioli atop fresh greens speckled with super-sweet grape tomatoes. Rather than drizzled in sauce, the shrimp were coated in aioli that seasoned each bite with zesty appeal and complemented the shrimp’s natural salinity. And from first to last bite, the shrimp never became soggy, which was a boon even though entrees arrived directly on the heels of our appetizer.
A perennial favorite of mine, the Fried Oyster Salad with roasted asparagus, bacon, goat cheese, sunflower seeds and tomatoes with truffle vinaigrette hits the spot for a lighter luncheon. During our visit, the oysters were neither greasy nor overly fried and were perfectly spiced. The roasted asparagus contributed smokiness, while the goat cheese added tangy notes throughout.
The Omelette with shrimp Creole and goat cheese seemed like an unusual combination. The earthy shrimp Creole was right on the money, but the goat cheese didn’t gel with the green pepper/tomato-rich Creole sauce. The frites we ordered as a side were a starchy, salty, pencil-thin indulgence.
Another complete indulgence was the Grits and Grillades. The grits were impossibly rich—heavy on the cream—but the fresh, zippy tomato gravy helped to cut the richness, resulting in a plate of rustic goodness. The dish inspired lots of smack talk at the table over who makes a better grits and grillades: my partner or my friend’s grandmother. Though the pork in Beausoleil’s take was a tad tough, the restaurant’s version could still compete against our families’ dishes.
As our final entree, the Louisiana Jumbo Lump Crab Cake Benedict was topped with poached eggs and a zesty hollandaise. It offered incredibly creamy cakes that burst with crab flavor.
Desserts of the day differed in flavors and textures. The Chocolate Toffee Cake was dense with mild chocolate flavor. The frosting was incredibly sweet but was balanced by the density of the cake and slight bitterness of chocolate. No one at the table could detect the toffee flavor, yet all found the cake delectable.
As a counterpoint to the cake, we ordered the Blueberry Thyme Sorbet. The tartness was refreshing, with pungent thyme notes. It was an appealing palate-cleanser after our brunch.
Sometimes meals are about the food alone. Other times it’s more about the perfect setting, the right mix of people, delicious libations and good food. At Beausoleil it’s never just one factor that makes the experience worthwhile. It’s all the tangible and intangible aspects combining into one consistent, memorable meal.
beausoleilrestaurantandbar.com
7731 Jefferson Highway
225-926-1172
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Hours:
Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Open Tuesday-Saturday at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the January 2017 issue of 225 Magazine.