When asked his role at the Myrtles Plantation, Morgan Moss says he is “everything from the yard boy to the proprietor.” But in March of 2017, when a fire destroyed the existing restaurant on the grounds of The Myrtles, he added a new role to the list: constructing and running a whole new restaurant.
Restaurant 1796 held its soft opening earlier this week. The restaurant aims to bring a unique new concept to the St. Francisville attraction, based around open-fire cooking and fresh, simple ingredients. A 10-foot open-fire hearth makes a statement in the middle of the restaurant, drawing patrons in and signaling that this restaurant is the real deal.
Moss, who took over The Myrtles about four years ago from his parents, John and Teeta Moss, explains that the inspiration for the restaurant came from the historic grounds themselves.
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“The Myrtles is 223 years old now,” he says. “Back then this was very much the style of cooking, so the restaurant has this really cool homestead feel and complements the land around us. At the same time, it doesn’t feel quite as country or quite as old school as you would feel in other restaurants like this.”
Beyond the open-fire cooking style, Restaurant 1796 turns to the land around it for from-the-garden ingredients, letting those fresh flavors and seasonal vegetables shine through in each dish. Proteins like duck, beef and speckled trout line the menu, smoked and seared right in the middle of the restaurant.
Besides entrees, are sharable small plates for family-style eating. Moss says his hope is for people to sit together and discuss the food they are eating, expanding conversation and connections with every bite.
“Our chef likes to refer to it as a Thanksgiving-like meal,” Moss says. “He likes the camaraderie it brings to the table, and it sets the tone of the entire experience. I think it refocuses the conversation back to the food in a lot of cases and brings up conversation, as well.”
Beyond sharable plates and impressive entrees, Restaurant 1796 offers a strong cocktail list and extensive wine menu. The restaurant also prides itself on a creative dessert menu that incorporates the open-flame cooking style. Moss says the restaurant’s focus on freshness means the team is always trying out new dishes. He expects to change up the menu quarterly to match seasonal flavors and produce.
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Overall, Moss hopes Restaurant 1796 not only complements The Myrtles’ aesthetic, but develops an identity entirely its own.
“It’s really easy for restaurants within attractions to turn into an amenity,” Moss says. “The volume is there, and the people are there, so the thought is as long as we just feed them, they will eat—right? But if you took that restaurant out of the attraction, could it even sustain itself? That’s our big thing. We want this restaurant to have its own identify and want it to be a destination in itself.
Restaurant 1796 is currently open to the public through reservation only. The restaurant is open seven days a week, 11 a.m.-2 p.m., and Monday through Saturday, 5-9 p.m.