The first thing you’ll notice is the giant cactus.
It’s painted on the newly pink wall outside the recently opened Lily’s Restaurant and Grill in the former Cupcake Allie location on Perkins Road. It’s certain to become a frequently Instagrammed mural once word gets out. Beyond the cacti, though, there’s a whole menu of authentic cuisine to sample from this unassuming little shop.
Inside you’ll find more murals and friendly waitstaff quick to offer you a sample of the house-made agua fresca—the Jamaica version is made with hibiscus flowers and the Tamarindo with tamarind—and a complimentary basket of chips with an acidic, spicy, orange-hued salsa not quite like any restaurant salsa you’ve had before.
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My photographer and I were ready to throw down by the time we arrived for lunch, so we ordered big—perhaps too big. Turns out Salvadoran-style tamales are pretty hefty. Wrapped in banana leaves rather than the typical corn husks of the Mexican variety, these guys are thick and filled with veggies, potatoes and chicken. Proceed with caution, as the chicken stays on the bone to infuse the filling with all the flavor of the marrow, so you’ll want to use your fork to pick them out. But with these savory flavors, they’re worth the risk.
A mixed plate of pupusas shows off perhaps the best Lily’s has to offer. They’re fluffy, buttery, soft and filled with a peppery cheese and meats so tender and finely shredded they’ve practically melted into the cheese and dough. The fajita beef tacos with onions and cilantro are delicious as well, but these little pockets of goodness are good enough that you’re definitely going to want some to go for later.
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Even with our table laden with plates, there was still so much left on the menu to try. I departed with a giant to-go cup of horchata, a milk punch made with rice, cinnamon and sugar, which tastes like the best of the milk at the bottom of a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch. A worthy dessert.
If you’re looking for a new go-to Mexican/Central American joint in the Southdowns area, Lily’s has it covered. The restaurant, at 3753 Perkins Road, Suite 6, is open Monday through Saturday 10 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sundays 10 a.m.-4 p.m.
