Confession: I’m not well versed in Latin food. But, at 11:30 a.m. on a Tuesday morning, Rico Louisiana Latin Cocktails and Cuisine was fixing to teach me a thing or two.
A project of former Bin 77 executive chef David Dickensauge and three other partners, the recently-opened restaurant on Coursey Boulevard—formerly the site of a Fernando’s Mexican Grill—began its soft opening phase in March. It bills itself as a Louisiana take on Latin food, being more closely connected to Spanish and Latin cuisine than the usual Tex-Mex restaurant. Menu categories focus on tapas, tortas (Spanish-style sandwiches) and even paella.
My dining partner and I opted to sit on the restaurant’s patio, taking a small table for two with large, wrought-iron chairs made to lean all the way back in. Easygoing and leisurely in the daytime, I could see the patio, with its colored picnic tables and string lights, being a romantic date spot in the evening.
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Our waiter brought out an order of chips and salsa that looked different from any I had seen before—the chips were heavily fried and seasoned, and the salsa had shredded cheese and pico de gallo on top. Both were thick and curiously sweet, but the flavors of the tortilla chips and salsa complemented each other so well. I could have easily eaten three more baskets, but I didn’t object when our server removed the basket only because he was making room for more food: our main entrees.
Rico’s menu is made for sharing, with small portions of tapas, tacos and tortas. My dining partner and I found ourselves searching the names of menu items we were unfamiliar with online. We made decisions on what to order based on Google image searches and, of course, our server’s recommendations. Both proved to be valid means to a delectable end.
We decided to order the garlic shrimp tostones, two of the chicken and chorizo tacos and an order of braised pork nachos.
The tostone dish featured shrimp and avocado salsa atop fried slices of plantain. While the shrimp came with tails intact and the avocado salsa more closely resembled the texture of guacamole, this tapas plate was an interesting mixture of flavors, with a peculiar contrast between the warm, sweet plantain and cool avocado.
While my chicken and chorizo taco was somewhat soggy by the time I got to it, I liked the flavors of the tender meat and tortilla in particular. Taco Tuesday is a tradition many local restaurants celebrate, and Rico’s is no different on that front. With its Taco Tuesday special, our tacos were only $2 each. Uh, can I get three more, please?
As a self-professed nacho queen, I’d say Rico’s were delicious. Somehow, those spicy-yet-sweet seasoned chips were the key. Pulled pork, corn, black beans, pico, shredded cheese and queso all mixed together layer after layer. I loved how the flavor of the cheese complemented the chips and toppings.
My only qualm: A heap of braised greens sat atop the nachos, an addition my dining partner and I felt wasn’t necessary. The combo of pulled pork and braised greens works in a barbecue joint, but throw those leafy greens cooked and limp on my nachos, and I will shove them right off with a well-aimed fork.
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Since Rico’s is a tapas- and cocktails-focused restaurant, the portions are smaller, the menu more limited and prices a little higher, so diners are in for a more upscale lunch experience. But with a selection so easy to share with other diners and with unexpected ingredients that aren’t the run-of-the-mill Tex-Mex variety, eating becomes a more intimate and adventurous experience.
Rico’s is at 10655 Coursey Blvd. It is open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; and Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Fast Break is a 225 Dine series that celebrates lunch in Baton Rouge. Follow along as we tour different dining options for a quick bite around the city.