I’ve passed Curry N Kabab countless times with curiosity. A friend eats there probably once a month and has always raved about its Pakistani and Indian food and delightful staff. But until my partner came home expounding on the restaurant’s delights after a lunch outing, I had never ventured a stop. So on a recent night, we decided to take the plunge for dinner at the quaint Coursey Boulevard spot.
For starters, we had Vegetable Samosas and Papadum. I was surprised by the sneaky spice of the slightly smoky, crisp and addictive Papadum. Thank goodness these thin flatbreads are so airy, as I usually gorge myself on them. I will always appreciate fried dough stuffed with anything, and the large triangular samosas were super crisp on the outside with soft, mild potatoes and peas inside. These were excellent starters, but the real stars were yet to come.
Stuffed with potatoes and peas, the flaky and crisp Vegetable Samosas are a perfect starter to the meal.
Of our entree orders, the first up was Vegetable Jalfrezi, which had a tartness that surprised us. We requested medium spice, and the heat was a perfect complement to the fresh vegetables of cauliflower, broccoli, snap beans, peppers and onions. This would make a delightful and hearty meal for meat and meatless lovers alike.
Channa Masala consisted of tender, earthy chickpeas with bright chunks of green bell pepper, tomatoes and crunchy sautéed onions. The sauce had a slight kick with wonderful warm spices. If every beans-and-rice dish were as good as this, I could eat it for every meal.
Next up, the Butter Chicken was a revelation. Tender chunks of breast meat were swimming in a rich and creamy sauce inundated with what I suspect was ghee and layered with a satisfying heat. If you only get one entree here, I’d suggest this.
Curry N Kabab’s Shahed Khan says the restaurant aims to prepare each dish to the diner’s specifications or dietary needs using fresh and natural ingredients.
For vegetarians or those uninitiated with Indian-style cuisine, Channa Masala is a great introduction, with its chickpeas stewed in bell peppers, tomatoes and onions.
Nothing in the meal surprised us more than the rice. Called Plain Rice on the menu, we expected the usual simple, steamed basmati. One mouthful told us the rice was far from plain. Specks of whole cumin seed peppered the extra long grains with gratifying bursts of flavor. Rice is so often just the forgotten partner, but here it is elevated to great heights.
I’m always interested in stuffed breads, so we completed our meal with Cheese Naan and Tandoori Aloo Paratha. I constantly find myself disappointed by other restaurants’ stuffed naan, but not here. The cheese naan was lightly charred with plentiful cream cheese inside and a soft texture. The Aloo Paratha naan was more charred and smokey—and almost a meal in itself. Stuffed to overflowing with potatoes, this whole-wheat, toothsome bread was perfect for sopping up all the luscious sauces from our entrees.
Curry N Kabab’s website notes that all the food is fresh and made from scratch. With each new bite, we realized this was no idle boast. As the owner explained to us, he opened this establishment several years ago for the sole purpose of providing an unprocessed, handcrafted culinary experience. And provide he did. Gloriously.
THE BASICS: Curry N Kabab opened its doors on Coursey Boulevard in October 2012 and has been a quiet stalwart of the local Indian and Pakistani cuisine scene ever since. The menu offers lunch specials and vegetarian and vegan options, as well as takeout and delivery.
WHAT’S A MUST: Start with some flaky Vegetable Samosas, then move on to one of the comforting entrees like Channa Masala, with tender chickpeas in a tomatoey sauce, or the outstanding Butter Chicken. Be sure to order some naan or the restaurant’s fragrant rice to sop up all the flavorful and spicy sauces.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the December 2020 issue of 225 Magazine.
