Photos by Amy Shutt
This landmark restaurant has been serving simple Tex-Mex for half a century
Along a seemingly forgotten stretch of what used to be the major thoroughfare between Baton Rouge and New Orleans is an unassuming building advertising “Mexican Food” on a large wooden sign. Family owned and operated for more than 50 years, El Rio Grande sits perched like a historic landmark, holding the buttress of a waning fortress along Airline Highway.
The restaurant was founded by Joe and Eva Urdiales in 1962, and when Joe retired in 2003 the parents passed the Tex-Mex torch to their son Raul.
During our visit, we didn’t spot Raul, but Mr. Joe was front and center, with his daughters orbiting him. Though “retired,” we spotted him doing everything from bussing vacated tables to taking drink orders.
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On a regular Thursday night, we were surprised to see the front parking lot as well as the front dining room nearly full. Fortunately, they accommodated our party in the back dining space. We asked our waitress about the best margarita. She explained the Presidente was the loftiest libation on the menu but that she believed the Top Shelf was the superior beverage, especially frozen.We ordered three Top Shelf margaritas and soon the whir of a blender could be heard in the background. No daiquiri machine shortcuts here: Each one is handmade individually the old-fashioned way. And with each sip the quality showed.
Another source of quality and attention to detail was the salsa. I asked if it was made in house and was told it’s produced fresh every day. The bright, acidic, not-too-spicy flavors were a testament to an idea that so often gets waylaid: make it right, by hand, and your efforts will shine through. One friend enjoyed it so much she exclaimed several times, “I’d buy this if it were bottled and sold.” And this was coming from a Californian with countless Mexican cuisine options practically on her doorstep.
The menu is quite large and it took each of us some time to work our way through to a decision. Not finding exactly what I wanted, I turned to the a la carte section, where Don Jose’s Beans were listed for $2.95. At the recommendation of our server, I ordered these beans and was blown away upon first delectable bite.
Plump pinto beans swam in a pool of bean pot liquor punctuated by crisp chunks of green bell peppers. This alone was so gratifying to this bean freak that I nearly neglected the rest of my plate.
Once I could tear myself away from the beans, I was impressed with the flavor and texture of the Chicken Enchilada. Rolled in a sweet corn tortilla topped by an earthy ranchero sauce, the shredded chicken was moistened lightly by more of the flavorful sauce. Rounded out by a single tamale, I felt satisfied and satiated by my pieced-together entree.
To top off our Tex-Mex odyssey, dessert was in order. With the kitchen out of the Chocolate Chimichangas, we asked for four orders of Sopapillas. Hot, airy, puffy squares of dough were each crowned with a dainty pyramid of powdery confectioner’s sugar. Each perfectly cooked, non-greasy morsel was accented with just a hint of sweetness from the sugar. Each plate was ornamented by packages of honey, in the event that a diner wanted an even more syrupy confection. All of our honey went unopened, though, as any further gilding of these lilies was superfluous.
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There are times in life when nouvelle cuisine is the relevant dining choice. But other times what you crave is solid, hearty Tex-Mex fare—the type of food that leaves you immensely satisfied and fulfilled, where recipes that have stood the test of time are the order of business.
After 53 years in operation, that place is unequivocally El Rio Grande.
ABOUT EL RIO GRANDE
8334 Airline Highway
926-1348
Open Tuesdays-Saturdays 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sundays 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Closed Mondays.