Southern flavor mashups and quality ingredients bring the crowds to this restaurant
Why now? Roux 61 is settling in at the Natchez-based restaurant’s Baton Rouge location. Situated in the former Boutin’s, it consistently draws a crowd.
What’s a must? The Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake is hard to pass up, with its creamy, savory texture.
With my usual cohort out of town, I made a date with a good friend to dine at Roux 61. Since we were dining on a Friday, during Lent no less, we thought it best to meet right after work. When I arrived at 5 p.m., I barely managed to nab the last parking space in the lot while others were forced to get more creative with their parking options. I put my name on the list and joined the other patrons, many of whom were spilling outside to wait. But our wait was far shorter than we expected, as this restaurant is humongous.
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The new restaurant in the former Boutin’s space seems to cater to a similar clientele, specializing in hefty portions of Southern favorites and plenty of fried seafood options.
On the menu, I noticed an appetizer called Steak Bites, with this description: “Sliced ribeye battered, fried, and served with a dipping sauce.” It seemed sacrilege to deep-fry a steak, so I bypassed this one, instead opting for the Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake.
The slice of savory cheesecake was a party in my mouth—ultra-creamy texture, loaded with seafood and covered in a rich Creole mustard sauce.
On a previous visit, my friend had enjoyed the Oysters Diablo, so we also ordered a half dozen. The oysters were steaming hot in their shells. Topped with copious amounts of bacon, jalapeño and Parmesan, the briny oyster flavor was hard to find. But the topping was tasty.
The Roux Specialties on the menu feature several seafood pasta amalgamations that would whet the appetite of many a noodle lover. If that doesn’t tickle your taste buds, there are plenty of sandwich, salad and platter choices. There are even a variety of steaks for those who prefer their meat on the hoof.
My friend ordered the whole catfish platter, and it was massive. Three whole catfish were served atop a mound of French fries and three large hushpuppies. The hushpuppies were particularly sweet, as I prefer. The catfish were on the smaller side, but with three fish to dig into, no one complained. The fried cornmeal crust was crisp without a hint of oil, and the tender flesh released quite easily from the bone. Very satisfying.
The nightly special I ordered was a blackened drum with an orange mushroom tarragon sauce, grilled asparagus and maque choux. The sauce paired well with the corn, but I found its sweetness didn’t gel with the fish. The asparagus were gorgeously grilled and served under the fish. The moist drum was not too heavily spiced and was particularly good with the sautéed mushrooms.
For dessert, our waiter recommended the housemade Mississippi Mud Cake. At first, we found the presentation unattractive and haphazard. But once I dug in, the flavors of the rich chocolate frosting, gooey marshmallows and dense brownie-like cake grew on me. Chocolate lovers: This is your jam.
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I had low expectations for Roux 61, thinking it might be another run-of-the-mill Southern joint. But I came away pleasantly surprised by the flavors, the atmosphere, the service and the selection. The service was exemplary, especially the bus staff. They were always within reach to clear the table quickly. For such a massive restaurant, packed to the gills with people, the kitchen had food rolling out without delay. And our waiter was helpful, attentive and friendly. I guess that’s the thing about low expectations: They can often be exceeded—and in Roux 61’s case, greatly.
roux61.com
8322 Bluebonnet Blvd.
300-8880
Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.