Vegetarian Tacos at The Velvet Cactus come with pine nuts, cilantro, juicy portobello mushrooms, smoked Gouda and a welcome hint of truffle oil. Photos by Amy Shutt
Inventive Tex-Mex in a raucous indoor/outdoor dining space
The Velvet Cactus is not the first restaurant to occupy this spot on Old Hammond Highway. Several restaurants of varying success have come and gone here throughout the years. But the restaurant’s crew was not satisfied inhabiting a building with remnants of restaurants past. So it demolished any signs of previous structures, erecting instead a faux Old West/South of the Border hacienda, and from the look of the crowd and the expected wait time, this restaurant has resurrected this plot of land.
Outside is a huge patio positioned next to a soothing, if kitschy, waterfall and cement pond. The falling water not only cools the exterior but also helps mitigate the road noise. On the night we visited, the lively patrons easily relaxed as they lounged in the open air.
If the outside is boisterous yet soothing, the inside is downright deafening. This tiny space with a tin and bare wood ceiling has such wretched acoustics that I was forced to yell at my friends to be heard. It was a turnoff for all of us. Margaritas were in order to drown our sorrows if not the racket. With several fresh varieties, such as pineapple cilantro and cucumber jalapeño (and even a sugar-free option), most visitors will find the right tasty margarita to placate external stressors.
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For those needing a hearty choice to soak up the drink, the Mixed Grill is a distinct and filling entrée with pulled pork (smoky pork with an opulent texture of brisket), fajita steak (very lean and tender with a fleeting heat), pork ribs (coated with a chipotle sauce that packed a wallop), fajita chicken (almost sweet—perhaps a pecan rub—and refreshingly interesting), a veggie kabob (the most unmemorable item on the plate), and an option of tortilla soup (lightly smoky with shredded chicken, pico de gallo and fresh avocado. The hint of smoke added a pleasing earthy quality, while the chicken and avocado gave added richness). Everything was fresh, well-cooked and wonderfully seasoned. It tasted hand-prepared, not mass-produced.
Another categorical triumph was the Vegetarian Taco, with pine nuts, cilantro, juicy and well-seasoned portobello mushrooms and a surprise of truffle oil all joined beautifully with smoked Gouda. It was a sophisticated take on a common dish.
Of the two dessert offerings, one translated better than the other. I’m very picky about my tres leches, admiring this traditional dessert for its perfect mixture of three milks to create a liquid-laden yet not soggy honeyed masterpiece. This incarnation wasn’t the worst I’ve had, but it was far from the best, lacking interest and the richness I crave.
The Cinnamon Churros, however, were crispy on the outside and slightly soft inside. The ridges gave a sublime crunch but also acted like canyons of flavor hiding the cinnamon-sugar mixture. A true street food delight.
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Our food came out lightning fast. As one friend commented, “There’s no seating, so they have to get you out quick.” Everyone noted the high quality of food—and the noise.
Overall, The Velvet Cactus is a fantastic place to kick back with tasty margaritas, uncommon foods and friends. The patio is a welcoming respite where imbibers and diners can easily while away the hours. Inside is fun and funky—the walls are covered with colorful, engaging art. But should you be relegated to the tightly packed interior, bring your earplugs to diminish the thunderous roar.
THE BASICS
thevelvetcactus.com
7655 Old Hammond Highway
227-2563
Monday-Tuesday, 4:30-9 p.m.
Wednesday-Thursday, 4:30-10 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.