Here in Baton Rouge, we live in a sea of Mediterranean restaurants. While some are better than others, many are serving essentially the same dishes with little variation in preparation styles or dish variety. So when I visited Zoroona, I expected a tasty Mediterranean meal but few choices that would deviate from the norm.
Our first indication that we might be in for a unique experience came as we entered the beautifully appointed foyer. Soft earth tones and stunning photography made the entrance welcoming. The dining room was no less spectacular, with more photographs, built-in bench seating and beautiful lighting. It’s obvious the owners invested extensively in the decor and ambiance. On our way to the back, I took note of interestingly cracked floors that reminded me of an ancient medina, and in the very back, a semi-private raised dais with a U-shaped bench that, with its abundance of cushions, would surely make a cozy space for dinner with friends.
With our visual sense well fed, it was time to move on to our taste buds. Having heard reverent whispers about the Rosemary Bread at Zoroona, I felt it was essential for our table. Before I had even found it on the menu, our friendly server surprised us. The bread came complimentary and was served with a side of olive oil. The crusty exterior gave way to a soft interior with bursts of woody rosemary. Our party of four devoured this like it was the end of days and the bread was our last meal.
We asked the server his advice for appetizers, and he suggested that we try the Hallume Fried Cheese. Six ample slices of goat cheese arrived swimming in a densely spiced pool of olive oil. One companion was so delighted with this dish that he couldn’t keep his hands out of it. The slightly salty, chewy cheese, lightly pan-sautéed, was described by one member of our party as having “serious flavor and a big kick of spice.”
Another member of our party ordered Cabbage Rolls for the table. The cabbage had a hint of vinegar, encasing lots of herbaceous rice and bits of mint-enhanced ground meat. It was a hearty start to our Mediterranean adventure.
To round out our appetizer indulgences, we chose the ubiquitous Falafel. The soft but still textured chickpea interior had an abundance of herbs and a slight, spicy heat. A tangy, creamy tahini sauce was placed in the middle of the plate with a bounty of fresh romaine and juicy sliced tomatoes that paired well with the sauce and offered nice alternatives to the patties. We all enjoyed the taste, but one companion found it “a little over-fried.”
Frequent readers may recall that I have a love of all things bean or legume, so when I saw Lentil Soup was available, I could not resist a cup. Expecting a brothy bowl of brown lentils, I instead received a lovely purée of peppery, creamy yellow lentils—small in size, yet immensely hearty. I had to stop myself from lapping up the entire diminutive bowl to save room for my entrée. I could have made a meal of this and the Rosemary Bread alone.
Our group decided on an array of entrées to get a taste of as many flavors as possible. I’m a sucker for shrimp-topped fish, so my choice was easily the Mediterranean Sea. Also available with salmon, the lightly crisp tilapia was spot on. Coupled with the smoky, sweet grilled shrimp, the entire dish was fresh and flavorful with a deftly handled seasoning that allowed the seafood to shine. The unexpected surprise of the dish was the richly flavored yellow rice. Perfumed with cardamom, each fluffy grain separated perfectly.
A true meat-loving guy, my buddy ordered the Combination Platter with Beef Shawarma and Gyros. The Gyros was delicately seasoned with a firm yet tender texture that made me want more than just a sample. In contrast was the chicken shawarma (he had ordered beef) that was dry and almost flavorless. We had all encouraged him to order beef shawarma, as it’s not often seen on menus. Apparently, it wasn’t to be seen here either. When we requested a sample, we were told, “It’s not ready quite yet,” only to be told later that it was unavailable. That was a pity, as we all wanted to try it.
My buddy’s wife wanted something lighter, so she ordered Zoroona Chicken. Light it was not, but it was delicious. Chunks of briny artichoke hearts, juicy mushrooms and sliced black olives were smothered in a decadent and tangy cream sauce. The tender grilled chicken breast was thinly sliced and topped with bright sun-dried tomatoes. It was a supremely pleasurable dish that none of us had seen before. This generous serving came with a salad and two sides, making the entire entrée humongous.
My companion is mad about lamb, and so he chose the Lamb Shank. An often gamy and sinewy cut of meat, this lamb was gently flavored, with a muted spice. It was so tender, it was falling apart, and it was braised and juicy without being too saucy.
We were thoroughly stuffed from our indulgences, but we were encouraged to try Warbat and the Cinnamon Delight for dessert. The Cinnamon Delight sounded delightful … on paper. Four plentiful scoops of vanilla ice cream were sprinkled heavily with cinnamon and served with fried pita bread coated in even more cinnamon. It resembled the fried ice cream dish you might find at a chain Tex-Mex joint—utterly underwhelming. The saving grace of the dessert round was the Warbat. A rose water-scented syrup bathing a soft, heavenly pastry of phillo stuffed with delicious custard. Full as we were, we inhaled this with abandon.
While Zoroona offered some of the familiar, it also had enough surprises to make it more than worthy of being added to our restaurant rotation. In fact, before we left, our merry bunch confirmed that we should return to this Mediterranean mecca as soon as possible. Given the excellent service, several menu surprises and an utterly relaxing atmosphere, I think our return will be very soon.
ZOROONA zoroona.net
6900-D Siegen Lane
421-8233
Open 10:30 a.m. Monday-Friday; 11 a.m. Saturday-Sunday
