I have visited Adrian’s Restaurant & Bar several times since it first opened last fall. As part of the Juban Restaurant Group, it’s got a trusted pedigree with a more casual vibe and family atmosphere. On my visits, I’ve always felt welcomed by the staff, and with the exception of one brunch entree, the food has been consistently delicious. But for this review, I set out to dine with a more analytical eye.
Appetizers are divided into cold and hot options, and of course we had to order from both.
Adrian’s Ahi Tuna Carpaccio has been a go-to appetizer for me on several visits. Comprised of sushi-grade tuna thinly sliced and topped with shallots, capers and a delicately dressed arugula salad, it’s definitely on the lighter side. For more heft, buttered toasted crostini are served along with it. The carpaccio is a luscious yet airy starter.
Our hot appetizer selection, Mussels Diablo, came steamed in a wine garlic sauce and served with a huge portion of perfectly crispy french fries. This was no mere appetizer portion: It was enormous and more appropriate as an entree for a very hungry individual. The sauce was mildly spiced with a lot of tomato, but I found the heavy celery flavor off-putting. Still, my friend tore into it like it was her last meal.
An old-school classic: The Waldorf Salad is dressed with a chunky buttermilk Maytag blue cheese dressing
The Ahi Tuna Carpaccio appetizer is topped with shallots, capers and a delicately dressed arugula salad
Mussels Diablo piled high with crispy fries
For another cool option, the Waldorf Salad looked intriguing. A rarity on menus these days, this old-school classic was served with butter lettuce, grape tomatoes, celery, apples, grapes and candied walnuts all tossed in a chunky buttermilk Maytag blue cheese dressing. The large leaves of lettuce were unruly, demanding some cutting with a knife. But the fruit and blue cheese were a perfect pairing.
The pan-sautéed Speckled Trout Piccata was a huge hit with my dining partner. Its thin batter coating allowed all the lemon butter sauce to be soaked up, making for an incredibly moist fish. Served with the veggie du jour of garlic-roasted Brussels sprouts, it was a light and satisfying entrée.
Sticking with the seafood theme, I ordered grilled mahi mahi with basil oil. It was a beautiful presentation of a mild and meaty filet with colorful, earthy basil oil scattered on top and around the plate. It was a refreshing dish. The roasted Brussels had just enough al dente chew and char to make it an admirable side.
A notable highlight was the presentation of desserts. Rather than a printed menu, the selections are brought to your table on a platter. Each dessert offering was described in detail with the benefit of a visual aid. Since we dine with our eyes first, this allowed for a more educated choice.
Though neither dessert we chose was made in house, both were sourced from local bakeries. Thankfully raisin-free, the Carrot Cake had plenty of meaty walnuts. The cake itself was less rich than I’d prefer, and we all found it lacking a bit in flavor. My friend described it as “ordinary and dry.”
Adrian’s interior includes a raw bar serving up charbroiled and on-the-half-shell oysters.
Neither ordinary nor dry, though, was the Apple Pie. It had caramel sauce and a thick ribbon of cinnamon amongst the softened apples. The crust was nontraditional, and the interesting custard consistency reminded us more of a not-so-bready pudding. This delightful riff on apple pie has ended our meals here more than once, and for good reason.
Adrian’s has a neighborhood feel making it perfect for a weeknight meal out when no one wants to cook, or happy hour and dinner with friends. During our visit, service was expedient, and our server was kind and professional. The wine list was varied, and the food was excellent.
This has quickly become a regular choice for a comfortable, casual meal out.
THE BASICS: Opening in September 2017 in the same shopping center as Alexander’s Highland Market, Adrian’s aims to provide a family dining experience in the south Baton Rouge area. The menu features plenty of favorites from its sister restaurant, Juban’s, as well as a raw bar, sandwich options and a full brunch menu on weekends.
WHAT’S A MUST: Start with the Mussels Diablo steamed in a wine garlic sauce and topped with a hefty pile of crispy french fries. The pan-sautéed Speckled Trout Piccata entree features a light batter and a delicious lemon butter sauce. The dessert options include several sourced from local bakeries, and you can never go wrong with a slice of Apple Pie.
Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
This article was originally published in the July 2018 issue of 225 Magazine.
