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Our secret reviewer dishes on Baton Rouge’s changing food scene

As a teenager, I would often pass my evenings at Louie’s Cafe. I didn’t know it at the time, but the late nights surrounded by the sights and smells of the beloved diner would help further the growing passion I had for food.

I’ve lived in Baton Rouge my entire life. In that time I’ve seen such vast changes to this city’s food scene that it almost seems incomprehensible. Having spent my adulthood exploring edible delicacies all over the globe, I’m gratified to now have many of those world enchantments right here at home.

Long before I ever left our shores, though, I got my first taste of international food right here in Baton Rouge: Rama Thai Kitchen. (RIP, old friend.)

I soon expanded my taste buds along Florida Boulevard by way of Vinh Phat, the Vietnamese market. Before I could blink, a variety of other Vietnamese restaurants opened up to me, furthering my obsession with the city’s global offerings. In the years since, Baton Rouge has seen an explosion of culinary options. While some came before their time, others were right on schedule.

The dining experience has changed in decor as well as cuisine, though not always for the betterment of conversation. Sadly gone are the tablecloths and background music, replaced instead by hard surfaces and all the noise that reverberates off it. My ears are ringing just thinking about it. Slowly, though, local restaurants are coming to their senses and seeing that patrons actually want to converse with their table companions using their “inside voices.”

Dessert options are becoming a highlight of many menus with a wide variety of interesting options. Yet still I’m finding that one of the only in-house sweets offered is bread pudding. Can we move past this? It’s time to bring on in-house pastry chefs at area establishments to remedy that situation and offer new ideas.

Another thing that would be appreciated: an authentic Korean restaurant. Perhaps a Cuban sandwich shop and more African options, too? Just saying. Let’s make these happen.

Since I became a restaurant reviewer with 225, I’ve had so many opportunities to experience interesting flavors through the interpretative talents of individual chefs as well as the much-appreciated opinions of front-of-house staff. I’ve learned to ask not what is most popular, but rather what’s the most interesting or “What’s your favorite?”

The most important thing I’ve learned is not to become too attached to any restaurant for any reason (staff, chefs, the restaurant itself) since so often they can come and go. I now ponder a great meal realizing that it might not be there the next time I crave it.

I’ve learned that if we want the culinary institutions that enthrall us to not only survive but thrive, we must visit often and encourage others at every opportunity to do the same.

And I’ve learned that a good meal can be elevated, made great and more memorable by a remarkable experience thanks to a fun, engaged server; a friendly, knowledgeable bartender; and staff who remember you and your particulars. Those things more than the food itself bring me back to certain establishments again and again.

Chefs around the city are pushing the envelope. Though patrons ask so much of them, they now ask even more of us. They ask us to educate ourselves and know where our food comes from. We are asked to appreciate the changes in seasons through ever-evolving menus. They ask us to open our minds and explore new delights. Most importantly, they ask us to trust them to take us on a journey using all five senses.

This city that I love and this magazine I write for have been through much in my short tenure. What dynamic changes await us on the horizon? Only time will tell.


This story originally appeared in the November 2020 issue of 225.