Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years and loves a good whiskey selection.
The Overpass Merchant crew took the old Zee Zee Gardens space and really made it their own. The restaurant, which opened in April, has a patio for cool weather al fresco dining. Add to that the cozy interior with its rustic wood accents and interesting art pieces, and you’ve got a space that’s both warm and welcoming.
Once inside, we went right for the appetizers. The Coconut Shrimp Ceviche with plantain chips was highly recommended by our server. The plump shrimp were covered in a creamy coconut milk sauce with hints of citrus that was pleasant and refreshing. The paper-thin plantain chips were addictive.
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We also tried the Flatbread and Smoked Pork Steam Buns appetizers. The flatbread with prosciutto, fig jam, whipped goat cheese, arugula and aged balsamic was heavy on the balsamic, causing the thin, lavash-like crackers to become limp quickly. That said, the cured meat, sweet/acidic sauce, spicy arugula and creamy cheese created a delightful marriage of flavors.
As for the steam buns, we found the pork salty, but the tender buns along with Thai chili relish helped mitigate that.
Since our table had four diners, we agreed salad would be a nice filler. There are two available: Salad #1, with Maytag blue cheese, candied pecans, grapes and a sugarcane vinaigrette, and Salad #2, with goat cheddar, Granny Smith apple, pistachios and cranberry vinaigrette. The simple preparations of both made for a nice intermezzo to all the richness to come.
Speaking of richness, for the entrées we chose Chicken and Beignets, The Burger, BBQ Shrimp and Grits and the lightest choice: Coconut Shrimp Tacos.
The tacos were served make-your-own style. The fried shrimp was light, with an avocado slaw that
was crunchy and fresh but not spicy, as the menu claimed. This was a simplistic dish with add-ons of sour cream and a thick salsa, all wrapped in flour tortillas. My friend, a light eater, found them delicious and satisfying.
The BBQ Shrimp and Grits had a nicely spiced, traditional gravy with lots of tasso. The goat cheese grits were creamy and an interesting counterpoint to the robust flavors of the sauce.
The Burger, with a blend of chuck, brisket and short ribs, was not as deeply flavored as I’d have expected. But the juiciness along with the buttery bun, sharp cheddar and onion jam made up for any perceived lack of intensity. All condiments were served on the side, allowing the diner to make it personal—the way it should be.
By far the heaviest dish was the Chicken and Beignets. The chicken was marinated, sous vided, then fried. The Steen’s cane syrup gastrique helped cut the richness of the fried chicken and fried beignets, which were oddly creamy inside and overly crisp on the outside. The chicken batter was too dark and crunchy, but the meat was moist and flavorful thanks to the marinade and the water-bath preparation.
There were three choices for dessert that night, so our table decided to go all in. First was the Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream and Cheesecake. The rich and creamy cheesecake was too sweet, but the mild mint ice cream helped balance that sweetness.
Next were the Churros with Rum Chata ganache. I love authentic churros, so I was disappointed that the Merchant’s interpretation was just the same beignets as my Chicken and Beignets entrée but with a cinnamon and sugar coating. That’s not to say the flavor of the milky ganache along with the earthy cinnamon didn’t make for a tasty dessert, it just wasn’t really a churro.
Our final sweet was the Skillet Brownie with chocolate ganache, candied pecans and whipped cream. The brownie could have been a bit more moist, but the big, lovely chunks of bittersweet chocolate definitely satisfied the chocolate lovers in our party.
As the restaurant filled with more patrons, it got loud. There were some acoustical panels on the ceiling, but with tile and wood floors and metal chairs, those ceiling panels had to work overtime to dampen the sound. If you’re looking for a quiet cozy dinner, this may not be your place.
On the flip side, the restaurant’s bar area was large and open, affording a lively environment for
drinks and a bite to eat with friends. And the drink menu included a nice beer selection with lots of variety, a respectable wine list and a decent whiskey selection.
During our visit, the restaurant was packed with a diverse crowd, and it was nice to see such a true representation of the neighborhood and our city at large.
With such a welcoming, eclectic space and genuinely friendly staff, The Overpass Merchant is a positive addition to the growing Perkins Road overpass area.
The basics: Nick Hufft (of Curbside Burgers fame) and co-owner Lon Marchand transformed the dingy walls of the late Zee Zee Gardens for this gastropub on Perkins Road, which opened earlier this year. It’s since become a popular after-work hangout with an inviting patio and lively bar area.
What’s a must? The Coconut Shrimp Ceviche with addictive plantain chips, the salty Smoked Pork Steam Buns with a tangy Thai chili relish and The Burger with add-ons like fried egg, red onion jam and maytag blue cheese.
Address:
2904 Perkins Road • 508-4737
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Hours:
Monday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-midnight
Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
Sunday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
More info:
theoverpassmerchant.com
This article was originally published in the November 2016 issue of 225 magazine.