When it comes to good Japanese cuisine and sushi, I tend to keep going back to my favorite places. But having heard much chatter about Umami, I decided to break out of my bento box and try something new.
Located near LSU on Burbank Drive, Umami piqued my interest as soon as I glanced at the small plates section of the menu. Skimming past the ubiquitous items such as Tataki and Edamame, I spotted an item I hadn’t tried before: Ankimo, or monkfish liver. Dining with some very adventurous friends made this an easy choice. We also ordered the King Mushroom as a starter—not nearly as exotic as Ankimo, but equally unexpected.
The grilled trumpet mushroom was sliced thin and presented like a sashimi platter. The dish was served with microgreens on top and scattered with feta—a cheese that shows up surprisingly often on Umami’s menu. Half the table thought the mushrooms were overpowered by the soy-based sauce, but we agreed that the meaty- textured fungi was lacking without some type of sauce.
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The monkfish liver pâté was simply adorned with masago, sesame seeds, green onions and a spicy ponzu sauce. I found the dish to be delightfully livery, while others found it fishy. Maybe it was a matter of personal preference.
A friend had strongly encouraged me to try the Hangover Soup, so I ordered a small serving. The dish that arrived was far from small; the bowl of spicy miso broth with fresh ramen, pork, seaweed and a soft-boiled egg was easily shared amongst us four. The pork in the soup was stupendous and really stood out, while the broth was distinctive, with a background of spice. Everyone agreed that it would qualify as our favorite dish if the salt were dialed back just a bit.
To accompany the soup, we ordered a side of the intriguing Oishii Fries. We figured if a Japanese restaurant is serving French fries, they’re worth a try. The large bowl of shoestring potatoes was ridiculously addictive, with Parmesan cheese and the rich surprise of bonito flakes. They were fantastic.
I am not one for extravagant sushi rolls with piles of fried crispy things and globs of sauces, preferring instead fresh fish and uncluttered preparations. But in the spirit of adventure I ordered the unusual Gulf Coast Roll with fried oysters, imitation crab stick, avocado and cucumber topped with a creamy Tabasco sauce, hold the crab. The Tabasco was undetectable, as was the expected brininess of the oyster. As my partner noted, “You put all that rice and sauce around a fried oyster, and everything gets lost.” Another diner simply called it bland.
We had tried several unique items at this point, and our palates now craved simpler dishes. So we each ordered raw fish for our main course.
All the nigiri/sashimi entrees were very fresh and left us satisfied with our choices. But a special bonus was the serving of pickled wasabi. We jockeyed over the small dish of sinus-clearing spice, adding it to everything we could. It was robust but incredibly hard to put down.
Dessert is usually an afterthought with Japanese food, but we were curious about the Green Tea Crêpe Cake we saw served at the next table. Twelve layers of tender crêpes with green tea mousse in between each and matcha tea dusted on top gave this dessert a striking presentation. The taste was airy with a mild sweetness.
Cake seems wanting without ice cream, so we indulged in the green tea and red bean ice creams. The green tea flavor was bitter, with little sweetness, but the red bean was refreshing and just sweet enough to please. We noted and appreciated the creativity of all the desserts.
Considering the restaurant’s proximity to LSU, the cuisine at Umami seems a little more daring than what the typical college student eats. After the meal, our table discussed our surprise that sushi roll staples seemed few and far between on the menu. The term “umami” refers to the fifth flavor sensation—besides the usual sweet, salty, bitter and sour—and most of the dishes seemed to position Umami as anything but the typical Japanese restaurant in Baton Rouge.
Why Now?
Umami opened in the former Hello Sushi space at the beginning of the year. Its sleek, minimalist interior puts the focus on some colorful, surprising and unique additions to the Japanese cuisine scene in Baton Rouge.
What’s a must?
While salty, the Hangover Soup has become a local comfort food favorite. Save room for the Instagram-worthy Green Tea Crêpe Cake.
Eat at Umami
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umamibr.com
3930 Burbank Drive
(225) 768-8808
Hours:
Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Sunday, 4-9:30 p.m.
This article was originally published in the September 2016 issue of 225 Magazine.